Executive chef Michael Hay with foodie Paula Roy, who can’t wait to get cheeky on Monday with the table d’hôte at Back Lane Café to benefit the food bank
JAN 16 13 – 8:45 AM — Few accolades are more appreciated by a foodie than to have his or her recipe recreated by others to serve in public.
At least, that’s the impression I got years ago when the late, great chef Kurt Waldele of the National Arts Centre had Tim Wasylko (now chef at the prime minister’s residence) make my rillettes to serve at one of his large social get-togethers for other chefs at his spacious home in Cumberland. (Recipe here.)
Of course, I was flattered.
So I can well appreciate the satisfaction food blogger Paula Roy (of Constantly Cooking) must feel to be invited next Monday into the kitchen at the 46-seat Back Lane Café to oversee and serve her recipe for Cheeky Pig in a Puddle and Celery Root Purée, after owner George Monsour and executive chef Michael Hay heard from customers how wonderful the food is. Her main dish will appear on the table d’hôte with shrimp bisque, a sharing plate of vegetables, dips and pickles, and the café’s signature warm honey-glazed doughnut with vanilla ice cream for $45 ($15 will be donated to food bank, Parkdale Food Centre.)
I say, what a cool idea. (Reservations, 613-695-2999.)
“I heard it was good, and sent her a direct message on Twitter saying we’d like to try the dish,” Monsour says.
“So we put together the idea of an evening — sort of a kitchen takeover by Paula — with donations to the Parkdale food bank.” (The meat is being donated by Joel Diener at Saslove’s butcher shop on Wellington Street.)
Personally, I love braised cheeks — whether they be halibut, cod, pork or veal — with great meaty flavour and somewhat stringy texture, but certainly not in a tough way. You can get veal or pork cheeks at any good butcher shop, but may have to order them ahead. More often than not, they’ll be frozen.
“My cheeks were inspired by a trip to Britain in 2011 when I tried them at a fancy restaurant in Bath, which specialized in local and seasonal foods,” Roy says. “It came braised in a gentle sauce, and I remember thinking, ‘wow, here’s something I haven’t tried before and it’s so tender and flavourful!’ So I started working with this cut at home, and pretty much scored on my second attempt. It’s a real winner.”
So good, in fact, Roy was invited to serve it as recently as December at a neighbourhood cooking event in Hintonburg. That’s how the folks at Back Lane heard about it.
“And I like to serve it with celeriac purée because I get rather tired of mashed potatoes all the time,” she says. (Folks who want to recreate it exactly from the recipe, below, can find truffle-infused salt at better gourmet shops like the downtown La Bottega, or ByWard Fruit Market.)
“Just having one of our customers contribute to our vision is a bit of fun,” says Michael Hay, executive chef. “It’s kind of like having a guest chef — a guest chef program with non-professionals who are enthusiastic has its own cachet.” In fact, the restaurant may do it again.
“This is a first for us,” Monsour says. “I just thought it would be fun to test a food blogger’s recipe in a real service setting. It creates a little more cultural energy in the food scene.”
Adds Roy: “I’m so excited to be bossed around, that’s going to be the best part for me on Monday.”
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Cheeky Pig in a Puddle
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(Created by Paula Roy)
Serves 4 to 6
– 1 1/2 to 2 pounds (900 g) pork cheeks
– 1 1/4 cups (300 mL) red wine, divided
– 1 onion, chopped
– 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
– 2 sticks celery, chopped
– 2 to 4 tablespoons (50 mL) canola or grapeseed oil
– 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour, for dredging
– 1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter
– Juice, 1⁄2 lemon
1. Trim meat as needed to remove excess fat. Place in a sturdy Ziploc plastic food bag and pour in 1 cup (250 mL) red wine. Squeeze air out and seal tightly. Refrigerate 6 to 24 hours, turning occasionally. Chop all vegetables and set aside.
2. Remove meat from bag, discard marinade and pat dry. Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C).
3. Heat 2 tablespoons (25 mL) of oil in a large Dutch oven (if you don’t have a Dutch oven, use a casserole dish that can go on the stovetop – you can start the dish in a large saucepan, then transfer to casserole to braise in the oven).
4. Dredge pork in flour and sear on medium-high heat to brown, in batches if necessary to not overcrowd the pan/pot. Add a bit more oil if necessary to brown all batches.
5. Add a little oil to the pan if needed to sauté onion, carrots and celery, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are caramelized, about 5 minutes.
6. Stir in tomato paste and cook 1 minute. Add maple syrup, cloves, cardamom, thyme and bay leaves; increase heat until bubbling. Stir vigorously to dislodge brown bits on the bottom of the pan.
7. Return meat and add just enough chicken stock to cover. Add remaining 1/4 cup (50 mL) red wine and stir gently. Cover and braise in oven for 2 to 2 1⁄2 hours, until the meat is starting to fall apart. (Note: You can cook this dish for 2 hours, remove from oven and refrigerate, then finish cooking just before serving.)
Celery Root Purée
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(Created by Paula Roy)
Serves 4 to 6
– 1 large celery root
– 1 medium russet (baking) potato
– 3 cups (750 mL) milk
– 3 cups (750 mL) water
– 1 tablespoon (15 mL) salt
– 1 small onion, chopped
– 4 tablespoons (65 mL) butter, cut into 4 pieces
– Ground white pepper
– Fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
– 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) truffle salt
1. Peel celery root, potato, and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) cubes.
2. In a large pot, combine milk, water, and 1 tablespoon (15 mL) salt and bring just to boil on high heat. Add celery root, potato and onion; return to boil and reduce heat to medium. Simmer until vegetables are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, reserving 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) of the cooking liquid.
3. Add butter; stir to melt. Using either a stick immersion blender or food processor, purée until smooth. Add reserved cooking liquid only if needed to make smooth purée (not runny). Season to taste with white pepper. Garnish with chopped parsley and a pinch of truffle salt.
Tip: Purée can be made 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Reheat before serving.
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